If you’re like many woodworkers, your hand tools are stored just about everywhere in your shop. This versatile and handsome wheeled tool cabinet will help you get all your hand tools in one place – with a portable tote (and even a secret compartment) thrown in for good measure.
For the past two decades I’ve been using a couple of old falling-apart dressers to house my hand tools. Now that the kids are almost weaned, I’m finally starting to have a little free time. Instead of pouring it into a couple of hopeless cases, I decided to spend it building my dream tool chest.
Constructed of maple solids, birch multi-ply (aka Baltic birch) and walnut accents, this new home for my hand tools has six drawers in the base and lots more storage room in a removable tote. The tote lets me take my most-used tools to a job site, while casters on the chest let me roll the rest of them around the shop for convenience. Heavy-duty, full-extension slides provide access to drawer contents, while a removable lid lets me use any drawer as a worktop base.
Finally, with large scavenging teenagers roaming the property, I decided to build in a secret compartment where I can hide the last few dollars we own, or save my miniature rosewood square from being used as a paint-can opener.
Getting started – taking sides
The sides of the chest are simple frame-and-panel construction and each consists of two stiles (piece 1), two rails (piece 2) and a plywood panel (piece 3). After cutting them all to the dimensions given in the cut list on page 29, set up your router table with a 5/16" or a 3/8" straight bit to plow a 1/2"-wide by 5/8"-deep groove in the inside edge of each stile and rail.
By using a bit smaller than the nominal 1/2" thickness of the plywood panel – which will most likely be a hair shy of 1/2" – you can center the groove in the edge more easily, and accommodate the nominal plywood dimension. Because of maple’s hardness, take multiple passes, raising the bit about 1/8" each time. The edge of the bit closest to you should be approximately 5/8" from the fence as in Fig. 1. This keeps your workpiece from being trapped between the fence and the bit during the second cut as shown.
Make your first cut on a test piece, then reverse the board and make the second. Check the groove width by slipping the test piece onto your plywood. The fit should be snug, but not so tight that it sticks.
After plowing grooves in all four stiles and rails, create tongues on the ends of the rails. This is a job for a tenoning jig on your table saw (Fig. 2). Or you can set up a dado head and use the saw’s miter gauge to make the cheek cuts for the tongues.
Dry-fit the rails to the stiles and the plywood panels, making sure the best face of each part is to the outside. When you’re satisfied, glue and clamp each side together. Check for squareness by measuring diagonally as you apply clamping pressure. When the glue has set, remove the clamps and sand down to 220-grit.
I don’t like square corners in the shop because I’m a klutz. So, with both safety and aesthetics in mind, I rounded all the corners on the cart sides. The radius on these corners is 1-11/16" because I had a tin can on my bench with a diameter of 3-3/8". (Any can in the 3" to 3-1/2" range will work.) Remove most of the waste with a jigsaw, then finish up with a belt sander. Ease all edges with a sanding block and you’re ready to proceed to the rest of the chassis.
The drawer stack
Drawer construction always begins with the slides, because they determine the size of the gaps between each drawer and its opening, so have your slides on hand before proceeding. Knowing how hard this tool chest will work over the next half-century (nothing wrong with a little optimism), I used the best slides I could find. Blum’s Tandem Plus concealed drawer runners are a bit spendy, but they have permanently lubricated rollers, self-closing action and automatic-latching actions, tool-free height adjustment and a 75-lb. dynamic weight capacity.
I used 3/4" birch multi-ply for the top and bottom (piece 4) and the sides (piece 5) of the drawer stack. To minimize tearout when crosscutting plywood, set your table saw blade at about 1/8" to score the bottom face in the first pass, then raise the blade to make the second pass.
An interlocking joint connects the top and bottom to the sides (Fig. 3). Begin by installing a 1/4" dado head in the table saw (or a 1/4" bit in your router table) and plow two 1/4" x 1/4" dadoes across the inside face of each side located 1/4" from the ends of each part (Fig. 4).
Next, raise the blade height to 3/4" and center a groove in each end of the drawer stack top and bottom (Fig. 5). You’ll probably want to attach a tall auxiliary fence to your table saw’s regular fence.
The final cut is made with the blade lowered to 3/8" Here, you’re trimming one of the walls created by the second cut (Fig. 6). Set the fence to remove 1/2" from the inside wall (check which face has the better appearance to determine this) and lay each part flat on the table to make the cut.
Glue and clamp the drawer stack together and when dry, begin applying the face frame. This is all 3/4" x 1" stock. Glue and nail the frame stiles (piece 6) and rails (piece 7) in place: I temporarily clamped them together and then used 1-5/8" pneumatic finish nails to secure them, as shown in Fig. 7. Drill pilot holes and set the nail heads if you go with the manual approach.
Cut the rest of the rails – which are the drawer dividers – to size, then glue and screw them in place with a single 2" screw driven through one of the stiles into the end of each rail (Fig. 8). Be sure to drill a pilot hole and countersink for these and all screws in this project. Beef up these joints with pine rail supports (piece 8). These are 1x3s cut to length, then glued and screwed in place. To line them up properly, clamp them in place after applying the glue, and then pin them with a couple of finish nails driven through the front of each rail. A couple of 2" screws driven through the drawer-stack sides secure each end of each support. Sand the drawer stack to 220-grit, then gently break the edges.
Assemble the carcase
Lay one of the sides flat with the inside (less pretty) face up, and position the drawer stack so the front edge of the trim on the stack is located 2" in from the front edge of the assembled side. This will give you enough “meat” in the side stiles to accept screws. I positioned my stack 2-1/2" up from the bottom of the sides because that’s what worked best for my locking casters. Use a few pencil marks to record the location of the stack, then lift up one edge at a time and apply a bead of glue. Secure the stack to the side with two countersunk, pre-drilled screws in each drawer opening (Fig. 9). For the front, where there’s a frame, 1-5/8" screws work; in the back, change to 1-1/4" and space these to mirror the screws in front.
Repeat the process for the second chest side. (You may need some help lifting the subassembly.) After the glue dries, cut the back panel (piece 9) to fit. With multi-ply, expansion and contraction are really not issues, so apply glue along the back edges of the drawer stack and secure the back with brads, making sure the bottom edge lines up with the bottom of the drawer stack.
Install your casters with bolts, washers and nuts as required, spacing them as far apart as possible for a stable ride. Make sure they clear the sides as they swivel.
A few pieces of trim dress out the joints between the sides, back and drawer stack. Begin by plowing a 1/4"-deep by 1/2"-wide centered groove in a piece of maple to create a cap (piece 10) for the top edge of the back panel. Glue and nail this in place, then set the nail heads. I used 1-5/8" finish nails here.
Next, glue and screw a piece of maple trim (piece 11) along the joint where the top of the drawer stack meets the back panel. These screws are driven up through the top of the drawer stack, so they’re invisible. Two similar pieces of maple (piece 12) seal the joint where the drawer stack top meets the chest sides. Here, you’ll need to create small notches on the ends of the trim (Fig. 10) to wrap around the stiles. Chamfer the front ends on the miter saw, then dry-fit the two pieces of trim (Fig. 11) before gluing and screwing them in place from the underside of the drawer stack top. The last two pieces of trim (piece 13) conceal the corners where the back meets the sides. The tops of these are chamfered, too, and then they’re glued and clamped in place. Use the famous stick-and-clamp method to reach into the corners.
The drawer slides
For the chest carcase, you’ll need five pairs of 18" slides and one pair of 15" if you want to have a secret compartment, or six pairs of 18" if you don’t.
Mill a couple of pine 1/4"-thick vertical spacers (piece 14) to slip behind the drawer slides to keep the slides parallel with the chest sides, then make a story stick from a 38" piece of 1x2. Stand it inside the drawer stack with its bottom edge on the cabinet “floor.” Mark the bottom edge of the top drawer opening on the stick. Do this at both sides – they should be the same, but sometimes things aren’t perfect – then crosscut the stick to this length. Just average the two marks if they don’t line up perfectly.
Slide the rear bracket onto your first drawer slide, and position the slide in the top drawer opening. It should be 1/8" back from the front edge of the trim. Use a spring clamp to hold it in position, then slip your story stick under the slide – not the rear bracket – to make it parallel. Slip one of the two 1/4" pine spacers behind the drawer slide, lining it up with the screw holes halfway along the slide. Drill holes for 1/2" Phillips-head screws and attach the slide to the inside of the drawer stack stile and the back of the cabinet. A couple 1-1/4" screws secure the middle of the slide. Repeat this process for all the 18" slides, cutting the story stick to length for each opening.
I located my secret compartment behind the second drawer down, because the top drawer will be used more and would be too obvious. Glue and screw a couple spacers in the back of this opening to accommodate the shorter 15" slides. These are just L-shaped subassemblies of scrap pine (pieces 15 and 16) that move the back of the cabinet 3" forward (Fig. 12). Glue and clamp the spacers together in a simple butt joint, and let the glue dry before installing them. Install the two 15" slides in the same manner as the 18" ones.
The drawers
The drawers’ clear-pine sides, backs and fronts (pieces 17 through 25) are surfaced to 5/8" thickness because this is the maximum that the Blum slides will allow. They also require that the completed box be either 15" or 18" deep; a minimum of 7/8" smaller than the opening in height (I went with 1”); and the inside of each drawer must be 1-5/8" narrower than the drawer opening.
After cutting the parts to size, install a 1/4" dado head in the table saw and use your miter gauge to plow two 1/4"-deep dadoes in the inside face of each drawer side (Fig. 13).
Create matching tongues on the ends of the drawer fronts and backs: Note that the shoulder on the outside face of each board is 1/4", while that on the inside face is just 1/8" (Fig. 14). Then switch to a 1/2" dado head (Fig. 15) and mill a 1/4"-deep groove in the inside face of each part to accommodate the drawer bottoms (pieces 26 and 27).
Dry-assemble the drawers; when satisfied with the fit, glue and clamp each drawer together.
The Blum guides call for a 1-5/16"-wide notch at the bottom back corner of each drawer (Fig. 16). I set up a 3/4" dado head and made these cuts in two passes (Fig. 17).
Use Blum’s supplied plastic template to drill screw holes for the drawer locks as shown in Fig. 18, then install the hardware itself (Fig. 19). Use the same template and Blum’s supplied drill bit to drill two holes in the back of each drawer (Fig. 20), then slip the drawers onto the slides and check their fit and operation.
Drawer faces and handles
When I glued up the solid walnut for the six drawer faces (pieces 28 through 31), I used 7/8" rough stock and ran it through the planer to 3/4" thickness. That way, I didn’t have much sanding to do.
Trim each face to length, then cut the handles (piece 32) to size. Their front edges are chamfered slightly on top and bottom using a bearing-guided bit in the router table (Fig. 21). Next, mill a finger grip in the bottom face using a cove bit (Fig. 22). I had a 5/8" diameter bit on hand, but 3/4" or even 1" would work fine, too.
Sand the handles and center them on the drawer faces, then drill for 1-1/2" countersunk screws and secure the handles to the faces. Mount the drawer faces on the drawers so that they are centered on the drawer openings. Secure them with glue and 1-1/8" screws driven through the front of each drawer box into the back of the drawer face.
Shhh...the secret compartment
The compartment is simply a mitered box composed of two sides, two ends and a 1/4"-thick bottom (pieces 33 through 35). Cut the sides and ends to size, then miter the ends to length (Fig. 23). Plow grooves for the bottom into the inside faces of the sides and end, then glue and clamp the box together. Sand it down to 220-grit, then center it on the back of the second drawer and secure it with glue, clamps and a couple of 1-1/8" screws. Don’t drive any screws through the back of the drawer from the inside – they’ll be seen, and that might let the secret out ... or a teenager in.
Depending on how tight the joints are between the sides and the back of the cabinet, you might want to add a couple of thin strips of trim back there. On my cabinet, the joint was flush on both sides, so I didn’t see the need. Some 3/4"-square stock or quarter round molding would work. Other than that, the chest is complete and it’s time to move on to the portable tote.
Totable tools
This is a classic European carpenter’s toolbox with a hinged lid above an open compartment, and a drawer below. Begin construction by gluing up four boards to make a blank for the tote’s front (piece 36), as shown in Fig. 24. Note the scrap 24" spacer that ensures the opening for the drawer is the correct width. Leave enough extra length on all four boards to allow for possible snipe when passing the assembly through the planer after the glue dries. Miter the front, back (piece 37), and sides (piece 38) to length. I did this on a sliding miter saw, but a table saw will work fine, too.
Set up a 1/2" dado head in the table saw and plow two grooves in the inside face of each part (Fig. 25) for the shelf (piece 39) and the bottom (piece 40) These are just plywood panels cut to size.
Apply glue to the mitered cuts and assemble the front, back, sides, shelf and bottom using clamps to ensure tight joints and a square assembly. Don’t put glue in the groove because the hardwood and plywood need to be able to expand and contract.
While this subassembly dries, start work on the lid. This is a panel (piece 41) housed in a mitered frame (pieces 42 and 43). For the panel, I edge-glued several walnut scraps and made up two half panels. These I passed through my 12" planer, reducing them to 5/8" thickness. Then I edge-glued the two halves together and scraped and sanded the joint. It would have been easier to use a piece of plywood, but I’m so broke after raising those teenagers that I have to recycle scraps!
The frame is a simple molding with a groove plowed in its inside face for the panel. This is done on the table saw with a dado head, then the frame parts are mitered to length and glued together.
A wooden handle bandsawn to the shape shown on page 29 (piece 44) sits atop the lid. Sand the curves, then round over all edges except the bottoms using a 3/8" bearing-guided roundover bit, as shown in Fig. 26. Attach the handle to the center of the lid panel with glue and a couple countersunk screws.
The lid is attached to the tote with a piano hinge cut to length with a hacksaw and mortised into the top edge of the tote’s back to let the lid close tight. The barrel of the hinge should extend past the wood, and the depth of the mortise is 1/8". Use a bearing-guided rabbeting bit chucked in a portable router, then clean up the rounded corners with a chisel and install the lid.
Locate the two draw catches on the front of the tote and screw them in place after drilling holes with the largest pilot bit you can that will still give the threads something to grasp. Brass screws are incredibly soft and break or strip easily. One trick I’ve learned is to drive these small screws with a #1 bit. Then, if you do happen to strip a screw, you can switch to a #2 bit (which is bigger) and reverse out the screw.
Center the two brass handles on the sides of the tote 7-1/4" from the bottom. The handle on the lid is primarily for opening it, while the side handles are for carrying the tote.
The last two pieces of brass hardware are lid supports. Remember to move them about an inch past the back of the tote because the lid is recessed; move the locations of the screws in the tote sides back the same distance for the supports to work.
The body of the drawer is constructed in the same way as the drawers in the chest. Cut the sides, front, back and bottom (pieces 45 through 47) to size, create the exact same corner joints you did before, plow grooves for the bottom and assemble the drawer. Install the drawer slides, notch and drill for the hardware, and install it.
The drawer face (piece 48) is 1/2" walnut stock, to match the smaller scale of the tote. Install it with six screws driven from the inside, centered on the opening. The handle (piece 49) is the same stock you used for the large drawers, except in keeping with the downsized theme, I ripped it to 1" width before installing it with glue and two screws.
A handy worktop
We’ve all had days when we’re in the middle of a job and there just isn’t enough bench space for parts and tools, so our tool chest has a worktop that lies on top of one of the drawers, to increase bench space. This is just a board (piece 50) sized to fit on top of any one of the five large drawers (it won’t fit the short drawer with the secret compartment behind it). A couple of cleats on the bottom (piece 51) hold it in place, and they’re attached with glue and screws. I dressed up the edge with iron-on walnut edge banding, but that really isn’t necessary. (If you add the banding, you’ll need about 10'.)
When the worktop isn’t being used, it can be stored on the back of the chest. Install a couple of screw-eyes in the worktop and a pair of screw hooks in the back of the chest. Make sure the hooks are screwed into the top of the drawer stack. That ensures they don’t show and it will also give them some extra purchase.
Finish and felt
It’s been 25 years since I learned how to spray commercial kitchens and I’m still convinced of the value of a lacquer finish. It sprays easily, is extremely durable, and is relatively simple to renew. You can use aerosol cans, or set up an air compressor and spray gun. Either way, make sure there’s plenty of ventilation and please wear a charcoal filter mask or a similar NIOSH-approved respirator – cheap nuisance masks simply don’t cut it with airborne chemicals. Extinguish all pilot lights, too; lacquer is notoriously flammable.
Begin with a compatible sanding sealer, then sand all surfaces with 400-grit paper. Use a tack cloth to remove the residue, then spray four coats of lacquer. Sand and use your tack cloth between coats.
After the topcoat dries overnight, apply felt to the bottom of the drawer and compartment in the tote. Your most precious hand tools will be stored here, so a soft lining is in order. Cut the felt to size using a steel straightedge and a utility knife. Mask the walls of the drawer and the compartment, and apply a coat of spray adhesive to the bottom. Follow the timing instructions on the adhesive label and apply the felt. A drywall tool works great to stretch and smooth the fabric.
Let the adhesive dry overnight, then drag all those old dressers, cabinets and boxes of tools into the center of the shop. Then spend a merry morning sorting through all your toys and finding new homes for them in your brand new, custom-built woodworker’s tool chest.
John English
John English has been building furniture and cabinetry for a quarter of a century. He has written or co-authored four books, and published hundreds of shop articles. He currently publishes Woodezine.com, an online woodworking magazine.
Materials
The following are available at any hardware store or home center:
Felt
Screw eyes (2)
Screw hooks (2)
Brass chest handles (2)
Brass lid supports (2)
Specialty hardware/supplies
Spray adhesive, #146046, $8.99
Aerosol spray lacquer, #143196/gloss, #143197 semi-gloss, #143198/satin, $5.99 (12oz.)
Lacquer sanding sealer, #143199, $8.99 (qt. liquid); #143200, (12oz. aerosol)
18” full-extension drawer slides (10), #141353, $34.99 (pair)
15” full-extension drawer slides (4), #141352, $36.99 (pair)
Locking 3”Casters (4), #141051, $15.99 each
Brass piano hinge, 27H46, $15.99
Brass draw catches (2), #85H96 $2.99 (pair)
Walnut edge banding, 7/8” x 96”, #13V16, $3.50
Source:
Woodcraft Supply
www.woodcraftsupply.com
(800) 225-1153
